Checking For Square

With obvious exceptions such as turning and carving work, most woodworking projects rely heavily on straight lines and right angles. This is true for the individual components and the entire assembly, and accuracy starts with the simplest tools and methods.

Common layout tools for woodworking include several types of squares that are used to mark and check right angles to ensure they are a true 90 degrees. These are the try square, speed square, a combination square, and a framing square.

Even though most of these tools are manufactured to close tolerances, not all of them will have the same degree of accuracy. The simplest method for checking the square is to align the indexing edge or body/handle against a piece of plywood or MDF with a straight factory edge and mark a reference line along the blade. Then flip the tool over so the body/handle is on the other side of the line; the blade should be perfectly parallel to the line. If the square is off, repeat the test several times to make sure you’re getting a consistent result.

If the square is not true, remedies can vary. If possible, have the seller exchange it for a replacement that is accurate. If not, some tools offer options. Combination squares have a sliding removable blade; take it out and inspect the groove where it seats to make sure there’s no debris or other problem that might cause misalignment. If it’s a framing square that’s off, you can use a hammer and center punch to dimple the corner. Just scribe a diagonal line between the inside and outside corners of the square and punch along that line — toward the inside corner to open the angle, or toward the outside corner to close the angle. This adjustment can correct slight discrepancies of a degree or two if the square is not a true 90 degrees.

Because setup tools are critical to adjusting your table saw, jointer, and other woodworking machines, make sure these squares are accurate. If they are and your machining methods are sound, the lumber you build your projects with will be straight and square. (See SHOP TIP, below.)

Still, accurate parts are not enough to ensure that the overall assembly will be true and square. You can use squares to check the corner joints, but for any square or rectangular assembly, measuring diagonal distances between opposite corners is a simple and proven technique. Make sure the assembly is flat and free of twist or other distortion. Simply hook the end of your tape rule on one outside corner and record the distance to the opposite corner. Then repeat for the diagonal between the other two corners. If there is a discrepancy, push on the corners with the longer reading and re-check until the diagonals are of equal length. With the diagonals equal, the assembly is square.

This technique is based in part on the Pythagorean theorem of right angles in triangles. For shop or construction use, laying out a triangle with sides measuring in multiples of 3-4-5 respectively will yield a true 90-degree angle at the corner opposite the longest side (hypotenuse).

If you are in a pinch without a tape measure, or simply want to avoid numeric readings, you can use a long narrow strip of wood to take a direct reading on the diagonals. Cut one end to a point and fit it into an inside corner of your project, then mark the stick where it intersects the opposite corner. Try the same fit on the other diagonal and compare the readings; adjust until they are equal.

SHOP TIP—When you check the end or edge of a board for square, hold it up toward a window or other light source. A small gap toward either side will show up as a crack of light and you’ll know the cut is not square.

Now I'm a Farmer

“Now I'm a farmer, and I'm digging, digging, digging, digging, digging

It's alarming how charming it is to be a-farming

How calming and balming the effect of the air”

~ Now I’m a Farmer by The Who

Yep. It’s a very little known song by The Who, but I get it going through my head every year around spring. Truth is, I’m not a farmer but I really try. The only food I’ve attempted to grow was tomatoes. That experiment didn’t turn out so great, but it hasn’t stopped me from trying once more this year.

Since March I’ve built some raised beds and planted basil, spinach, lettuce, jalapenos and tomatoes (again) - so far so good. The spinach and lettuce are just peeking out of the dirt. The jalapenos are hanging in there and the basil is monstrous. On a side note, I’ve become a basil huffer. I can’t pass it without breaking off a leaf and smelling that awesome aroma!

I tried something different with the tomatoes this year, though. This winter, I was chatting with Matt Easley. He showed me how to grow tomatoes upside down without buying one of those AS SEEN ON TV kits.

All I needed was a hanging planter, soil, cocoa mat, landscape fabric and a tomato plant. I took the hanging basket and lined it with cocoa mat. I also put in a layer of landscape fabric just be extra safe. Next, I cut a hole in the mat and fabric. Now for the tricky part… I had to get the tomato stalk through the fabric, mat and the planter. The plant took a bit of a beating going through the hole, but it’s doing fine. I put the plant where it can get about 8 hours of sun and it seems to be getting stronger every day.

Now all I have to do now is water, fertilize and wait for the bumper crop to come in… hopefully.

So what are growing? You can show us by uploading pics to our community section or by posting on our Facebook wall. We would love for you to show off your green thumbs!

Oh, and if you are just getting started, check out this video for herbs and veggies anyone can grow.

Keep on digging, digging, digging, digging, digging,

Matt Mitchell
Digital Editorial Manager

Top Coat Finishes

Certainly not every woodworking project needs a finish, though most will look better and last longer given that extra protection. Some woods such as cedar or teak fare well even when exposed to the weather, and most wood finishes are notoriously short-lived under outdoor conditions, making continued maintenance a headache.

Some traditional penetrating finishes such as linseed or tung oil, or even a coat of paste wax, will deepen the wood's color and offer some protection against moisture and other threats. Newer versions blend the oils with resin varnishes that help build a thin protective film on the wood surface. These "wipe-on" finishes are easy to apply and renew, an leave the wood surface feeling more natural, a quality many people like.

For any interior wood surfaces that might be subject to damage from moisture, dirt, abrasion, or other hazards, a topcoat finish is hard to beat. Polyurethanes are a newer category of synthetic finishes available in both waterborne and solvent-based versions, and they perform as well or better than some traditional film finishes such as alkyd varnishes, shellac, or nitrocellulose lacquer - especially for resisting stains from water, alcohol, and other liquids.

Clean Miter Saw Crosscuts

Any type of crosscutting tends to leave splintered ends on lumber, because the wood fibers run lengthwise in the board. Ideally, the metal edge of the blade should be sharp enough and spinning fast enough to sever the fibers before the blunt force breaks them off. This is easier to accomplish on the “front” of the board, where the saw teeth enter the surface and push the surface fibers into the wood. On the “back” face, where the saw teeth exit the wood surface, there’s little to support the wood fibers, so most of the tearout occurs there.

The simplest remedy with a miter saw involves using a sharp crosscut blade (with 60 or more carbide-tipped teeth) and keeping a board’s “good” face (the one that will show when the project is completed) oriented up so the blade enters on that surface. This doesn’t address tearout on the back side where the blade exits, but often that will not be visible after assembly. And normally those small imperfections will not affect the strength of the joinery.

If not getting clean end cuts still bothers you or presents aesthetic problems for a particular project, there are other options. For occasional cuts, you can apply masking tape to the cut line (front and back sides), which will help keep surface fibers from tearing before they are severed cleanly by the blade. This is a time-consuming solution, though, so it’s not practical for frequent cutting.

The real trick lies in making sure the surfaces of the board are supported right at the cut line, especially on the back face. See if your saw base has adjustable plastic inserts that form the slot where the blade enters the turntable. Most miter saws have these, and you can adjust them so the gap is narrower than the blade kerf; then make a test cut without any boards to let the blade cut its own precise slot. This creates what’s called a “zero clearance” fit, and it will help reduce tearout by providing that critical support right at the cut line. Finally, you can simply use a sacrificial backer board behind your workpiece; press down firmly during the cut so there’s no gap between the stock.

Outdoor Project Leg Protection

Nothing’s worse than sitting down in an outdoor wood chair and discovering that the legs have nearly disintegrated from constant contact with the ground.

To avoid this when building an outdoor chair or bench you can try two things:

Furniture Glides

You can simply attach nail-on furniture glides to the bottom of the legs. This will minimize direct contact of the project with the ground, patio, or deck surface and limit the amount of moisture that wicks up into the project.

Try a Waxman plastic nail-on glide (#67022). It has a rubber washer that rests between the plastic and the bottom of the leg that acts like a seal when the glide is fully seated. I’ve used it on dozens of outdoor benches and chairs for years and they’ve held up quite well.

Wood Preservative

By itself, or in conjunction with the glides, treat the ends of the legs with a wood preservative, such as Olympic Maximum Waterproofing Sealant (#27388). You can brush it on or dip the legs into the sealant. Check the manufacturer’s directions on how often you should reapply the sealant, and follow this methodically.

A good protective finish, and then maintenance afterwards, is always the key to protecting outdoor furniture and keeping it in good shape, but you should also consider the area you plan to place the furniture when decided on the type of wood you use and the finish you plan to apply on the project.

Tongue and Groove Lumber Panels

Lumber premilled with tongue and groove edges saves a ton of time when creating large project parts, although most of the time it's used in paneling applications.

We've used tongue and groove cedar, for example, in several instances including a decorative fence gate and panels used in creating a planter. I'll focus on the planter application here.

Cut the parts to length. You can either cut them to the size you need, or cut them a little longer and trim after you assemble the panel.

Apply glue to the groove side and the tongue side.

Insert the tongue side into the groove side. You can try sliding it in from one end, which will push the glue out of the groove, or line it up and work it in from the side. If it gives you trouble, use a piece of scrap wood and a rubber mallet to tap it in place. Make sure it is fully seated, flush at one end, and wipe off the excess glue. Repeat for additional parts until you have the desired number of parts.

Allow the glue to dry. I prefer to place some weight on the assembly to keep the panel flat while the glue dries. You can clamp if you prefer. Because this panel is part of an assembly (essentially one side of a box), and will have a cleat attached to the inside face and a piece of trim attached to the top edge. I won't use any fasteners.

Cut the panel to width. Set up your table saw to trim off either the tongue or groove side first. I prefer the tongue side, mainly because in my experience the groove side will ride along a table saw fence a bit better. You want to make sure to fully cut off any taper that has been cut leading to the tongue so you have a square and flat edge. Cut off the groove side as your final width cut.

Cut the panel to length if needed. If you cut the parts longer than needed, now you can trim it as necessary to fit your desired dimension.