Cutting Miters and Bevels

Thanks to the versatility of table saws and power miter saws, making angled cuts requires only making some simple adjustments, not switching to another specialized tool or machine. That said, the cutting dynamics do change some when the blade or workpiece angle varies from a basic 90-degree cut, and this requires some different techniques.

When you’re making a standard rip cut or crosscut, you’re feeding the workpiece against the cutting teeth (or vice versa) with direct support to counteract and help control the cutting force generated by the spinning blade. Otherwise, that force would launch the workpiece like a projectile rather than cut through it. Angled settings add the likelihood of deflection because support of the workpiece isn’t as directly opposed to the cutting pressure. Working safely and accurately involves making sure the workpiece doesn’t shift out of alignment during the cut, and techniques for accomplishing that depend on the tool you’re using.

Table saw

Angled crosscuts on the table saw typically require using the miter gauge. The sharper the angle, the more the workpiece will want to slide against the face of the miter gauge. The most reliable ways to prevent this are to apply adhesive-backed sandpaper to the miter gauge face, attach a sacrificial backer board to the miter gauge and fit it with a stop block, or clamp the workpiece to the miter gauge if the tool’s design allows it. Better still, make a shop-built crosscut “sled” with an adjustable angle guide. Any of these measures is usually enough to prevent the “creep” that can occur when making a miter cut or a compound angle (bevel and miter together) on the table saw. Incidentally, don’t trust the accuracy of the angle scales on the saw or miter gauge—make a trial cut and check it.

Beveled rip cuts introduce another key consideration—keeping the workpiece flat on the table. Most table saw blades tilt to the right, toward the rip fence, creating the possibility that the workpiece might bind during the cut. Applying pressure to keep the stock flat on the table helps reduce the chances of binding and/or burning the edge, but take extra care to keep your fingers clear of the blade. When possible, consider repositioning the rip fence to the left side of the table, so the blade tilts away from the fence, the workpiece, and your hands.

Circular saw

Using a handheld circular saw for angled cuts requires the same techniques and accessory guides you’d normally use. For simple miter cuts, you can use an angle square or a shop-built jig as a guide; clamp the guide to the workpiece so you can keep your fingers a safe distance from the blade. For beveled cuts, use the adjustment feature on the saw’s base, but again, don’t trust the scale; make a trial cut and check it. Remember that the maximum cutting depth decreases as the angle increases.

Miter saw

Miter saws are designed to excel at angled cuts, so they don’t really require specialized techniques or accessories. The center table pivots for miter cuts, and on compound miter saws, the motor assembly swivels down to make bevel cuts also. One factor is especially critical: first, make certain the workpiece is held securely against the table and fence. You can do this with hand pressure or with a clamp; many saws feature a removable clamp standard or as an optional accessory. Steeply angled cuts, especially compound angle cuts, can bring the blade dangerously close to your fingers if you are holding the stock manually. In that case, secure the workpiece with clamps instead.